Monday, November 07, 2005
See, Chez Panisse with its French-Italian roots, but also Olivetto, Zuni, A16, Delfina, etc. Even Limon or Slanted Door do not escape this dogma, according to Patterson.
Why do I mention this? First, the slightly parochial angle is quite ironic: it is published in the NY Times, and praises the NY cuisine for its inventiveness and dismisses SF for its boring alledgiance to said dogma. The reverse point-of-view on the controversy would be: NY chefs, without access to the bounty of excellent local produce that are available to SF chefs, are forced to use fancy technique --dubbed here as creativity-- to bring any life to their dishes, when Alice only needs a pinch of salt.
The second angle is the ad hominem version: Patterson was chef at Elizabeth Daniel, a place which had great reviews, but tanked quite fast. He was then involved with Frisson and left (I am not sure of the details). His cooking was 'creative' and did not succeed, which could lead to two conclusions: either DP's creativity does not fill or satisfy his customer belly (the first comment at citysearch, I myself have not been to either Elizabeth Daniel or Frisson) or there is something wrong with the city.
Well, I hear Winterland or Campton Place are doing quite well, thank you, so maybe it's not the city.
what are you talking about? Nothing wrong with conferences, parties or beer. How does it relate to the post, though?
I was so sad when it closed. I would have liked to have my wedding dinner there; instead we went to Fleur de Lis where the waiter poured pea soup all over my new husband. Heh. We should have gone to Gary Danko.
Anyway, I don't know what Patterson is going on about in the Times. That seems like a very strange thing to complain about. What on earth is wrong with "simplicity and cultural authenticity"? Taken individually, those qualities include every cuisine I can think of.
Frisson, I never really wanted to try, it sounded too lounge-y and not enough restaurant-y. Maybe it was just bad PR.
over at knife's edge. I agree about tquality of NY produce. I worked for ashort time at Savoy, where chef Peter Hoffman is a big-time Greenmarket supporter, etc. and the stuff coming in the door would have been thrown out at our local Safeway.