Wednesday, November 01, 2006
The steak at Joe Di Maggio's Chophouse is lackluster and about $50, but we like its elegance and Italian fare.
You like the lackluster steak's Italian fare? Even that description is poorly written! That, or the SF Weekly assistant editor is making a great cheeky joke imitating Meredith's style. Frances, you are spot on!
Meredith opens with a cross between a press release from the tourist bureau and a studious 8th grade writing essay: One of the best things about the art of eating is the infinite variety of gustatory choices out there — whether you want to grab a solitary burger, sit with friends around a table covered with tapas or Chinese food, or share an elegant multi-course tasting menu with the object of your affection, San Francisco has numerous options available.
Is there a more ponderous way of saying the obvious? SF has a lot of restaurants, it seems Meredith has just discovered. Good for her.
But then why the f*k does she go to an Italian restaurant in North Beach! There are numerous options available, why, why, why does she always pick the same one? Why does she eat the same cuisine in the same part of town? It's mind boggling. Her overwrought introduction about diversity is just a way for her to insist she is aware of it, before giving it the finger and eating lobster, and $50 steaks in the same overexposed neighborhood. You know when a conservative pundit says "I have some friends who are gay" and you can hear a bit "but" coming from miles ahead? Well, same thing with Meredith.
"San Francisco has numerous options available." BUT...
That her ode to San Francisco's food variety is disingenuous should not come as a surprise. After all, she goes on and characterizes Alfred's today as an old-fashioned place with hit-or-miss meat, while her year-old review of Alfred's said:
As we drive home, my father is very content: "A good salad, a terrific steak, good french fries, an excellent cappuccino -- I had a wonderful meal." So did I. This, I think, is just the first of many steaks I'll enjoy at Alfred's.
Hit-or-miss steak maybe, but definitely miss-and-miss reviewing.
After that, it's lobster with poppy and mummy dearest, so I'll just stop here.
Labels: meredith brody